panel mount for USB

Patrick Gray patgperiod at gmail.com
Wed Aug 6 11:25:33 CDT 2014


Hi Alex,

   I was able to purchase that exact panel mount at HRO, and put it in the
dash of my Jeep Wrangler for benefit of my teenagers to charge their
iPhones, though I probably paid at least twice what you paid. I believe
West Marine carries those also for the boating community.

Here's a website I stumbled upon for Anderson PowerPole holders called
'Anderson Auto Grips' made of HDPE, they make a lot of other neat toys
including a housing for D-Star:
http://www.portableuniversalpower.com/our-products/anderson-autogrips/

Pat KF4MTV


On Wed, Aug 6, 2014 at 11:27 AM, Alex Fraser <beatnic at comcast.net> wrote:

>  I got some 12 volt panel mount dual USB thingies all the way from
> China.  They have nicer plastic than other USB gizmos I've had.  I guess
> you need better plastic for the thread that holds the thing  on the panel?
> It has an LED on it which lights when 12v is applied,  I needed a switch to
> turn the thing off when not in use.  I drew the panel in CAD and then
> processed into a G code tool path and then massaged the code.  I'm running
> the demo version of Mach3 so if you use the G code put out be the crippled
> version of Easycam you will break something or scrap the part, probably
> both.  I'm also limited in lines of code so I only do one hole at a time
> and have to cut and paste to get multiple passes.  It seems like a lot of
> work for a hole, but a circle with 2 flats (to key the part) wouldn't be a
> trivial set up if you tried to do it manually.
>
>
> Threads are OK, cast of course.
>
>
>
> For these small aluminum parts I use plastic block spacers to get them off
> the table.  That way I don't have to worry about
> breaking the tool on a hard spacer.  My clamps are all home made,
> including the T nuts.
>
>
> Direct connected without the switch hooked up.  I have to figure out
> mounting holes.
>
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