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<DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>Hey Bob,</DIV>
<DIV>You must be careful with Solar in another aspect. The HOA CC&Rs
for my present home specifically does NOT allow solar cells on houses (or
property). Many people consider solar cells ugly, and oppose their
usage. Even in these modern times.</DIV>
<DIV>73, Terry, N4TLF</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
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<DIV style="font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=bruninga@usna.edu
href="mailto:bruninga@usna.edu">Robert Bruninga</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Friday, June 12, 2015 11:51 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=tacos@amrad.org
href="mailto:tacos@amrad.org">tacos@amrad.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A title=bruninga@usna.edu
href="mailto:bruninga@usna.edu">bruninga@usna.edu</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> WB4APR's talk followup</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
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<P class=MsoNormal>AMRAD,</P>
<P class=MsoNormal> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal>I got distracted and off track in my talk and did not make
the final points regarding solar and EV’s:</P>
<P class=MsoNormal> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal>That is, that AMRAD is a group of DIY guys and on the one
hand, DIY solar is nearly impossible to make cost effective because you must be
grid-tied to get the economic benefit, and you must have licensed contractors to
do the work to get the NET meter from the utility.</P>
<P class=MsoNormal> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal>BUT- here is my DIY recommendation: Contract for the
smallest system a contractor will do. Lets say a 3kW, 12 panel system at
$3.50 per watt. (You get at least 30% back from tax credits). THEN
after it is installed, certified, permitted, inspected, and approved and you get
your NET meter, THEN, add all the additional panels you want at only about
$1/watt for solar panels and inverters.. <A
href="http://sunelec.com">http://sunelec.com</A></P>
<P class=MsoNormal> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal>Hooking it up is KISS simple. Just plug the panels into
each other (they come with mating plugs) and run the + and – wire down to the
Inverter + and – terminal (through metallic conduit). Then connect the AC
side, L1, L2, N and GND to a 20 amp breaker. Done. But to be code
compliant, you should loop the L1, L2, out through a $6 AC disconnect switch on
the side of the house placed near the utility meter so the utility can turn the
array off if they have to work on it. Done.</P>
<P class=MsoNormal> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal>Same goes for DIY Electric Cars. There are EV kits
available for every make and model old gas car there is. Imagine an EV
Convertible MGB for example. Just remove everything gasoline from the old car
except the transmission. The KIT then adapts a new electric motor at the
transmission, and now you have an EV.</P>
<P class=MsoNormal> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal>And it is KISS simple! Two terminals from the battery,
and two temrinals from the motor, connect to 4 terminals on the controller. Then
there is a bracket with a POT on it that you mount to the accellerataor pedal,
and now not only do you have an EV, but you have an EV that YOU can maintain the
rest of your life. No computers, no microcontrollers, no CAN bus, nothing
to go wrong. You can use ANY battery chemistry, etc.</P>
<P class=MsoNormal> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal>Anyway, that is what I was leading up to. That DIY is
alive and well in the new Clean Energy world we are moving into.</P>
<P class=MsoNormal> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal>Bob, WB4aPR</P></DIV>
<P>
<HR>
_______________________________________________<BR>Tacos mailing
list<BR>Tacos@amrad.org<BR>https://lists.amrad.org/mailman/listinfo/tacos<BR></DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>