Making SMD boards - wither paste stencils?

[Martin]

I agree that sending out for pcb boards is the best option, but toner
transfer can work, especially if you're cheap or need it immediately.  The
biggest shortcoming is it's hard making double sided boards so you end up
with large single-sided boards with many jumpers.

If you do etch your own boards, cupric chloride etch has many advantages.
The claim that it can be perpetually renewed is true.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Stop-using-Ferric-Chloride-etchant!--A-better-etc/

Using a laminator greatly enhances toner transfer.   The choice of paper for
transfer is very important.  Slick, shiny, thin magazine pages seem to work
best.  Lots of people really like this stuff but have I have never tried:
http://www.techniks.com/

I've been looking at using a three axis CNC router to mill PBCs.  Check out:
 http://wiki.harfordhackerspace.org/index.php?title=File:Hhs_pcb.jpg  I've
gotten an x-axis built for a fixed gantry mill that is stalled in project
overload.

One other tip for doing reflow soldiering is a component alignment mask
after applying soldier.  There are some people in the area doing this with
laser cutters.  They  have been building up PCBs in low quantities (10's to
100's) that are too expensive to send out for assembly.  They are also
working on DIY CNC pick and place.  They have also made PCBs by painting
copper clad with a coating that absorbs laser energy and burns it off taking
the copper with it.

Martin


On Mon, Nov 15, 2010 at 12:05 PM, Tad G <tad at planetisuzoo.com> wrote:

> There are also direct printing systems:
> http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/tutorial.html
> http://blog.rhysgoodwin.com/electronics/inkjettoner-hybrid-pcb-printing/
>
> -Tad
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Whittington" <markwhi at gmail.com>
> To: tacos at amrad.org
> Sent: Monday, November 15, 2010 12:00:59 PM
> Subject: Making SMD boards - wither paste stencils?
>
>
> I have been trying to figure out what the coating on the paper is. I've
> made a dextrin glue that works fairly well (detailed here:
> http://forums.makezine.com/comments.php?DiscussionID=1825 ) but I'm pretty
> sure that I'm either missing something or the toner transfer paper is
> completely different.
> Anyone have any thoughts on this?
>
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 15, 2010 at 10:32 AM, Frank Gentges < fgentges at mindspring.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> We used the special paper we got from Mouser and the backing would loosen
> up from the toner and just float away. That worked fine. We did not need any
> touch ups.
>
>
>
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